CONTROVERSY — Beauty, Conflict and Power

Press Review | Carolin Holzhuber | A/W 2024

In CONTROVERSY, Carolin Holzhuber explores the uneasy relationship between beauty, luxury and violence. Inspired by Prince’s song Controversy and the ongoing conflicts around the world, the collection reflects on the disturbing reality that war brings suffering to some while generating wealth for others.

Holzhuber translates these social and political tensions into sculptural footwear. Rounded, spherical heels evoke bombs or military hardware, while elongated shafts, ladder-like structures and angular platforms give the shoes an almost mechanical, weapon-like appearance. Delicate straps and exaggerated proportions create striking silhouettes that balance elegance with a sense of danger.

The colour palette draws inspiration from military camouflage, combining earthy browns, olive green, brass, muted gold and dark navy with softer shades of icy blue and blush pink. Material choices further emphasise the concept: crocodile textures, metallic finishes and crystal embellishments reference luxury and exclusivity, juxtaposed with forms that suggest conflict and destruction.

With CONTROVERSY, Holzhuber brings the aesthetics of high fashion into dialogue with the realities of war. The collection challenges the viewer to look beyond surface beauty, questioning how glamour, wealth and suffering can coexist. The result is a provocative exploration of power and morality, expressed through footwear that is as visually captivating as it is unsettling.